Garment producer nations as ethical sourcing destinations. A review of Kanchana N. Ruwanpura's <i>Garments without Guilt?</i>

Garments without Guilt? Global Labour Justice and Ethical Codes in Sri Lankan Apparels. Kanchana N. Ruwanpura. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, 2022, pp. xxvi +198. ISBN 978-1-108-83201-4 (hbk). In Guilt?, Ruwanpura provides a substantive overview of the history development country's garment industry, including contribution not only capital but also labour to its development. argues that country has become renowned ethical sourcing hub for garments, comparison with South Asian neighbours, suggests is seen as having niche position amongst global retailers. fact, claims producing ‘garments’ ‘guilt’, she suggests, are related absence highly exploitative work conditions within industry. Instead, industry gained an international reputation buyers one governed by ethicality, eco-friendly production, unblemished conditions. There several strengths Ruwanpura's book. I find it interesting Joint Apparel Association Forum Lanka, apex body Lanka's apparel envisioned labelling strategy through which garments produced were carry label tag. this way, that—although objective was eventually recognized unrealistic—JAAF made possible brand, package promote Lanka producer. ties broader debates value chain research about so-called supplier perspectives on corporate social responsibility (Fontana & Egels-Zandén, 2019; Bae et al., 2021). However, whereas many other authors mainly speak individual suppliers when they discuss conceptions ethicality (Lund-Thomsen, 2022), explains how achieved case collective approach articulating production. Articulating argument important at time countries such Pakistan, recently established Pakistan Textile Council Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Exporters (BGMEA), pursuing similar strategies branding their countries’ industries sustainable hubs. This points future agenda garment/textile Asia more broadly where achievements, challenges, prospects collective, national-level approaches investigated greater depth. The second strength book lies underlining role organizing played terms making positioning producer possible. highlights historically pushing both employers various governments provide (relatively) decent enact legislation high levels protection. Hence, direct interaction between employees institutional context can be facilitating move towards environmental upgrading Third, wish highlight importance understanding economic, cultural, Not does cite wide range previous studies evolution it, manages tie in-depth together insights into literature. Whereas literature often highlighted necessity interfirm dynamics—i.e., governance relationship top-down fashion, takes bottom-up view her analysis local suppliers, labour, national government developing hub. providing account based years detailed fieldwork investigation particular production locality rare these days. Typically, ranked journals will tend articles theoretical contributions given subject area (for instance, production). underlines continuous, longitudinal, locality. celebrates importance—in my view—of empirical knowledge. And gift those us, who researchers, believe nature contexts own right. Having some book, there number areas think could have been further elaborated. first regards concept ‘ethicality’. Business ethics typically understood field deals investigating moral choices decision-making processes business managers enterprises—often wider set stakeholders. questions right wrong determination values, norms, ideas are/should upheld morally justified sanctified. would liked reflect deeply ‘whose ethics’? According criteria do we judge ‘ethical’? criteria—i.e., values beliefs—can assert location ‘ethical’ than another? If so functioning ‘ethical production’, mean each then—in principle—determine ethically or enterprises right? For whether child homework (not) permissible industry—not widely Asia? leads concern. am empirically convinced described locations Asia. require kind comparative vis-à-vis taken up First, required fairly strict definition regarding what characterizes Second, undertaken India, Bangladesh, order establish came closer exhibiting characterize included share world gross wages, hourly hours different job categories workers across nations. Other measures jobs created last decade population size and/or realm, assessment hubs interesting. focus relative ‘green factories’—or LEED-certified factories—that present Bangladesh. Particularly, factories increased drastically recent years. Moreover, compliance specific sustainability standards. organizations Fairwear Foundation Social Compliance Initiative maintain databases make it—at least theory—possible compare ‘compliance performance’ if researchers negotiate access databases. With caveats, certainly reference come authoritative path combining economic like thank Nura Aziz, Singapore Journal Tropical Geography editorial assistance during process writing review productive helpful discussions CSR workers’